The evolution of automatic watch movements is a fascinating chapter in the history of horology, one that has often been overlooked despite its profound impact on the industry. Today, we delve into this story, exploring the innovations of John Harwood and Fortis, and the legacy they left behind.
The Birth of a Revolution
In the early 20th century, the wristwatch was still a relatively new concept, and one of the biggest challenges watchmakers faced was reliability. Every watch required daily manual winding, a process that exposed the delicate mechanisms to dust and moisture, leading to wear and tear over time.
Enter Walter Vogt, the founder of Fortis, who envisioned robust mechanical watches for everyday use. He identified the crown as the weakest link, a liability that undermined his vision. Simultaneously, John Harwood, a British watchmaker, was tackling the same problem from a different angle. He asked a simple yet revolutionary question: what if the watch could wind itself?
A Revolutionary Idea
Harwood's answer was ingenious. He patented a self-winding system centered around an oscillating weight, which transferred energy to the mainspring as the wearer moved. This principle was a game-changer, allowing the watch to generate its own power and keep running without daily winding.
The collaboration between Harwood and Fortis was a match made in horological heaven. Fortis, with its manufacturing expertise and conviction, brought Harwood's invention to life, creating the first automatic wristwatches. These watches were remarkable, lacking a crown altogether. The time was set via the rotating bezel, and the movement powered itself through the wearer's motion.
Legacy and Evolution
Around 30,000 Harwood automatic watches were produced, a significant number for the time. The automatic winding system evolved rapidly, with full rotors replacing the bumper system, improving efficiency and power reserves. Movements became thinner, more precise, and the industry moved forward, but the core principle remained unchanged.
Every automatic watch movement today can trace its lineage back to that fateful day in July 1926 when the first Fortis Harwood automatic wristwatches left the manufacture in Grenchen, Switzerland.
Acknowledging the Past
Interestingly, the origins of the automatic wristwatch could have been forgotten if not for a correction published by Rolex in the London Sunday Express in 1956. Rolex acknowledged Harwood's invention and apologized for any contrary impression created by their earlier advertising. This act of industry acknowledgment is a rare and remarkable moment in horological history.
A Lasting Impact
The automatic movement made the relationship between watch and wearer more practical and convenient. It transformed the daily winding ritual into a choice, adding a layer of convenience to the mechanical watch experience.
As we celebrate the centenary of this innovation, we reflect on how it has shaped the modern era of mechanical movements. Every rotor spinning inside an automatic watch today carries the DNA of that fateful day in 1926.
The story of John Harwood and Fortis is a testament to the power of innovation and collaboration, and their legacy continues to inspire watchmakers and enthusiasts alike.
